Getting Started.

If you're interested in joining us in this exciting and rewarding hobby, there are several things that you will want to know.  The first thing on the list is to decide to work with a boat that will be relatively easy to maintain and drive - rather than the fastest outrigger hydro you can buy.  With the weather forecast often including wind, it is often better to have a bigger boat that will handle the waves well.  Nothing is more discouraging to a newcomer than fighting a highly tuned racing boat that has to be set up perfectly in order to run at all.

Hull:

We recommend a 3.5cc, 7.5cc fiberglass mono hull to get started.  These classes offer some of the most competitive racing and are the most forgiving hulls to run in rougher water.  Many manufacturers have a number of different hulls that work very well - or you can look at purchasing a used boat from ebay or other sources.  Sometimes our members also have boats that they want to sell . You will need all of the appropriate hardware (rudder, strut, control linkages, propeller etc.) for your chosen hull too.  The hull supplier can often provide these items, and they are also available from a number of hobby shops.  Any of our members will be pleased to help with your questions. 

Radio:

A two or three channel radio on a "Surface Use Only" frequency is what you will need.  Radios are typically packaged with two servos that are strong enough to control the throttle, but you will want to get a high torque servo for the rudder.  50 ounce-inches is often enough torque for a small 3.5cc boat, but 75 ounce inches or more will be required for a 7.5cc boat or larger.  Check the specs on the servos that are available at your local hobby shop.  Radios are available in a wheel or stick based configuration. 

Engine:

Marine engines are available from a number of different manufacturers including MAC, CMB, OPS, Rossi. O.S. Max, and K&B.  These engines have water-cooled heads and are typically set up to accept a tuned pipe for the exhaust - a necessity for performance and our noise restrictions.  Performance is one aspect of deciding on an engine, but don't forget to ask about the availability of replacement parts as these are racing engines.

Fuel:

These engines were designed with racing fuel in mind.  The fuel we run is a blend of Nitro Methane, Methyl Alcohol, and a high quality lubricant.  This is similar to what the R/C airplane flyers use - but where they use 5 to 15 percent nitro, we start at 35% and go up to 60% for some of the smaller engines.  Most hobby shops can get model boat racing fuel, but they may not stock much of it - so be prepared to place an order in advance.  Our engines do not run well on model airplane fuel.

Starting equipment:

Most of the starting equipment that we use is basically the same as the model airplane flyers.  You will need an electric starter in order to start your new boat.  These are the same as the model airplane starters available at most good hobby shops.  A 12 volt starter battery will be needed to power the starter - we use everything from small motorcycle batteries to full size automotive deep cycle batteries.  In order to power the glow plug during starting, some sort of 1.5 volt power supply will also be required.  Some people use a power panel that attaches to the 12 volt battery and then provides plug ins for your glow plug and electric starter.  Glow drivers are also a popular way to go - check with your hobby shop.  You will also find an that each of our members has an assortment of tools, glow plugs, some spare parts, and some cleaning supplies in their tool kits. 

If you have any questions at all - please feel free to contact us either at one of our races or via e-mail (see the "Contact" page) BEFORE you make a purchasing decision.  We want your new boat experience to be a fun and rewarding one and we'll do our best to point you in the right direction.  You might want to check out some of the links that we have listed on this site for more information.